analog: A watch that shows the time using hour and minute
hands.
anti-magnetic: The movement of a mechanical watch can be
thrown off balance if it comes in contact with a strong magnetic
field; Magnetism is common in loudspeakers, televisions,
refrigerators, cars, etc. etc. and these days most watches claim to
be anti-magnetic. This is achieved by using alloys for certain
parts, among them the balance wheel and escape wheel. Electronic
watches are not susceptible to magnetism.
automatic winding: (or self-winding) This term refers to
a watch with a mechanical movement (as opposed to a quartz or
electrical movement). The watch is wound by the motion of the
wearer's arm rather than through turning the winding stem. A rotor
that turns in response to motion winds the watch's mainspring. If
an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will wind down
and need to be wound by hand to get it started again.
B
balance: This is essentially and oscillator which regulates the speed of the movement of a mechanical watch.
battery reserve indicator (or end of battery indicator):
Some battery operated watches have a feature that indicates when
the battery is approaching the end of its life. This is often
indicated by the second hand moving in two second intervals instead
of each second.
bezel: The ring which surrounds the watch dial (or face).
The bezel is usually made of gold, gold plate or stainless
steel.
bi-directional rotating bezel: A bezel that can be
rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used for
mathematical calculations such as average speed or distance (see
"slide rule") or for keeping track of elapsed time(see "elapsed
time rotating bezel").
built-in illumination: Lighting on a watch dial that
allows the wearer to read the time in the dark. Check out Seiko's
Lumi-brite technology.
C
calendar: A feature that shows the date, and often the day of the week. There are several types of calendar watches. Most calendar watches show the information digitally through an aperture on the watch face. Some chronograph watches shoe the information on sub-dials on the watch face.
cases: The case of a watch must not only protect the
mechanism and hold all the parts together but it must also look
good -sometimes to the extent of making a timepiece into a piece of
jewellery. A watch case is generally in 3 parts -the bezel, which
holds the crystal, -the band or centrepart, which contains the
movement, -and the back, either snapped or screwed on, in to which,
sometimes, is fitted a crystal so that an intricate mechanical
movement watch.
case materials: Materials range from inexpensive cast
metal through moulded plastic to solid chunks of steel or gold from
which the case is machined. In Great Britain, gold cases are
usually 18k, but less expensive watches are 9k. In most other
countries, 14k is preferred. Caratage indicates the gold content of
metal, stated as the number of parts of gold in every 24 parts,
i.e. 18k gold is 18 parts of gold alloyed with six parts of metal.
Platinum is becoming increasingly popular, as is titanium for its
lightness. Ceramic cases and bracelets -a scratch resistant space
age material formed under great pressure and heat from powder -are
used by some manufacturers. It does not bear any resemblance to the
ceramics used in pottery. Some watches in the middle price ranges
are gold plated over brass -9k or 18k plating usually. Vermeil is
the term used to describe silver which has been gold plated.
centre seconds: Seconds indicated by a hand at the centre
of the dial, along with the hour and minute hands.
chapter ring: The ring on the watch dial bearing figures
and minute marks. The hour figures are sometimes called
chapters.
chronograph: A watch that includes a built in stopwatch
function - i.e., a timer that can be started and stopped to time an
event. There are many variations on the chronograph. Some operate
with a center seconds hand which keeps time on the watch's main
dial. Others use sub-dials to time elapsed hours, minutes and
seconds. Still others show elapsed time on a digital display on the
watch face. Some chronographs can be used as a lap timer (see
"flyback hand" and "split seconds hand"). The accuracy of the
stopwatch function will commonly vary from 1/5th second to 1/100th
second depending on the chronograph. Some chronographs will measure
elapsed time up to 24 hours. Watches that include the chronograph
function are themselves called "chronographs." When a chronograph
is used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch face it
can perform many different functions, such as determining speed or
distance (see "tachymeter" and "telemeter") Do not confuse the term
"chronograph" with "chronometer." The latter refers to a timepiece,
which may or may not have a chronograph function, that has met
certain high standards of accuracy set by an official watch
institute in Switzerland.
chronometer: Technically speaking, all watches are
chronometers. But for a Swiss made watch to be called a
chronometer, it must meet certain very high standards set by the
Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). If you have a Swiss
watch labeled as a chronometer, you can be certain that it has a
mechanical movement of the very highest quality.
complications: One or more features added to a watch in
addition to its usual time-telling functions, which normally not
only include the hours, minutes and seconds but also date and often
the day of the week as well. Complications such as; perpetual
calendars, moonphase displays, alarms, repeating mechanisms,
quarter strikes as well as stop/start chronograph functions. Power
reserve indicators are also usually regarded as 'complications'
cosmograph: The cosmograph differs to the chronograph in
that the tachymeter is on the bezel rather than on the outer rim of
the dial. This was invented by Rolex to create a more modern look
to the watch.
countdown timer: A function that lets the wearer keep
track of how much of a pre-set period of time has elapsed. Some
countdown timers sound a warning signal a few seconds before the
time runs out. These are useful in events such as yacht races,
where the sailor must maneuver the boat into position before the
start of a race.
crown: Also called a stem or pin, a crown is the button
on the outside of the watch case that is used to set the time and
date. In a mechanical watch the crown also winds the mainspring. In
this case it is also called a "winding stem". A screw in (or screw
down) crown is used to make a watch more water resistant. The crown
actually screws into the case, dramatically increasing the
water-tightness of the watch.
crystal: The transparent cover on a watch face made of
glass crystal, synthetic sapphire or plastic. Better watches often
have a sapphire crystal which is highly resistant to scratching or
shattering.
D
depth alarm: An alarm on a divers' watch that sounds when the wearer exceeds a pre-set depth.
depth sensor/depth meter: A device on a divers' watch
that determines the wearer's depth by measuring water pressure. It
shows the depth either by analog hands and a scale on the watch
face or through a digital display.
dial: The watch face.
digital watch: A watch that shows the time through digits
rather than through a dial and hands (analog) display.
elapsed time rotating bezel: A graduated rotating bezel (see rotating bezel") used to keep track of elapsed time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero on the bezel with the watch's seconds or minutes hand. After a period of time passes, you can read the elapsed time off the bezel. This saves you having to perform the subtraction that would be necessary if you used the watch's regular dial.
electronic (quartz) watch: A watch, usually
battery-powered, which uses an electric current to cause a quartz
oscillator to vibrate, normally 32,768 Hz per second but sometimes
at much higher frequencies. These vibrations are processed by an
integrated circuit which transforms the current into impulses.
These are fed into a stepping motor which drives a train of gears
to move the hands. Some quartz watches have solar cells which take
light from any soul, natural or artificial, and transform them into
electrical energy. Another form is the Seiko Kinetic (See
Kinetic).
escapement: Device in a mechanical movement
that controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the
hands.
flyback hand: A seconds hand on a chronograph that can be used to time laps or to determine finishing times for several competitors in a race. Start the chronograph, putting both the flyback hand and the regular chronograph seconds hand in motion. To record a lap time or finishing time, stop the flyback hand. After recording the time, push a button and the hand will "fly back" to catch up with the constantly moving elapsed-time hand. Repeat the process to record as many lap times or finishing times as needed.
G
gear train: The system of gears which transmits power from the mainspring to the escapement.
gold plated: A layer of gold
electroplated to a base metal.
grande complications: The
most complex of mechanical watches featuring an abundance of
complications. The term is normally restricted to mechanical
watches. Quartz watches with additional features are usually
described as 'multi-functional'.
I
integrated bracelet: A watch bracelet that is incorporated into the design of the case.
J
jewels: Synthetic sapphires or rubies that act as bearings for gears in a mechanical watch. The jewels reduce friction to make the watch more accurate and longer lasting.
jumping hours: A digital
display where the time in hours is shown in the dial as a number,
usually visible through an aperture. The number changes, or jumps,
precisely on every hour.
K
Kinetic: Refers to the Seiko line of Kinetic watches. This innovative technology has a quartz movement that does not use a battery. Movement of your wrist charges a very efficient capacitor which powers the quartz movement. Once the capacitor is fully charged, mens models will store energy for 724 days without being worn. Ladies models store energy for 3-7 days. Of course, if the watch is worn every day the capacitor is continually recharged. The watch alerts you to a low capacitor charge when the seconds hand starts to move in two second intervals. For more information, click to go to Seiko's Internet Site.
L
lap timer: A chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, he stops the timer, which then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap.
liquid-crystal display (LCD):
A digital watch display that shows the time electronically by means
of a liquid held in a thin layer between two transparent plates.
All LCD watches have quartz movements.
lugs: Projections on a watch
face to which the watch band or bracelet is attached
luminescence: Luminous dials
first appeared during the Great War when soldiers needed to tell
the time in the dark. Early forms used Zinc Sulphide compound
agitated by a radioactive salt. It was painted on hands and was
potentially dangerous to those applying it. Its use was banned in
the 50's, since Tritium, a substance with a low radio activity,
replaced it. Other methods have been devised. Timex's 'Indiglo'
uses electronic luminescence; a button on the side of the case
causes a tiny current from the battery to the electrodes and gives
off energy in the form of light. Seiko uses fluorescent material on
the dial, activated by any exposure to light.
measurement conversion: A feature, usually consisting of a graduated scale on the watch's bezel, that lets the wearer translate one type of measurement into another-miles into kilometers, for instance, or pounds into kilograms
mechanical
movement: A movement powered by a mainspring, working in
conjunction with a balance wheel. Most watches today have
electronically controlled quartz movements and are powered by a
battery. However, mechanical watches are currently enjoying a
resurgence in popularity.
minute
repeater: A watch which can additionally tell the time, at the
push of a button or move of a small slide on the side of the case,
by striking the hours, quarter hours and minutes since the last
quarter hour on small goings inside the watch. Such complex watches
are never inexpensive.
moonphase
display: A graphic display by means of a specially shaped
aperture in the dial to indicate the phase of the moon, i.e. full,
new or somewhere in between. Very popular in the 90's but losing
favour in the second half of the century.
movement:
The inner mechanism of a watch that keeps time and moves the
watch's hands, calendar, etc. Movements are either mechanical or
quartz.
P
power reserve indicator: A feature that shows when the watch will soon need a new battery or winding. A battery reserve indicator on a quartz watch informs the wearer when the battery is low. Often this is indicated by the seconds hand moving at two or three-second intervals. Seiko's Kinetic watches are quartz watches that do not have a battery (see Kinetic). When a Seiko Kinetic needs to be wound, the seconds hand will also move in two second intervals.
pushers or push
pieces: Push buttons are on the case of the chronographs and
some complicated watches. Most are used to stop and start a
stopwatch but sometimes serve other functions.
PVD -physical
vapour deposition: A coating of titanium nitrate applied in a
vacuum and then covered by a coating of 22k gold to obtain a gold
coloured finish.
Q
quartz movement: A movement powered by a quartz crystal to. Quartz crystals are very accurate. They can be mass produced which makes them less expensive than most mechanical movements which require a higher degree craftsmanship.
R
rotating bezel: A bezel (the ring surrounding the watch face) that can be turned. Different types of rotating bezels perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions (see elapsed time rotating bezel," "unidirectional rotating bezel," "bi-directional rotating bezel" and "slide rule.")
rotor: The
part of an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch that winds
the movement's mainspring. It is a flat piece of metal, usually
shaped like a semicircle, that swivels on a pivot with the motion
of the wearer's arm.
S
sapphire crystal: A crystal made of synthetic sapphire, a transparent, shatter-resistant, scratch-resistant substance.
screw-lock
crown: A crown that can be screwed into the case to make the
watch watertight.
second time-zone
indicator: An additional dial that can be set to the time in
another time zone. It lets the wearer keep track of local time and
the time in another country simultaneously.
shock
resistance: As defined by U.S. government regulation, a watch's
ability to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto
a wood floor from a height of 3 feet.
skeleton
watch: A watch with no dial and only a chapter ring. As much
metal is removed as possible and all the remaining parts are
decorated with elaborate engravings.
sliderule: A
device, consisting of logarithmic or other scales on the outer edge
of the watch face, that can be used to do mathematical
calculations. One of the scales is marked on a rotating bezel,
which can be slid against the stationary scale to make the
calculations. Some watches have slide rules that allow specific
calculations, such as for fuel consumption by an airplane or fuel
weight.
solar
powered: A watch that uses solar energy (from any light source)
to power the quartz movement. The Citizen >Solar-Tech< models
use this technology and provide a 180 day power reserve, so they
are able to run continuously. For more information, click here to
go to Citizens Internet Site.
spring bars (or
pins) : Spring-loaded bars between the lugs on the case, used
to attach a strap or metal bracelet to the case.
stepping
motor: The part of a quartz movement that moves the gear train,
which in turn moves the watch's hands.
stopwatch: A
watch with a seconds hand that measures intervals of time. When a
stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the stopwatch
function and the timepiece are referred to as a
chronograph.
sub-dial: A
small dial on a watch face used for any of several purposes, such
as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph or
indicating the date.
swiss made:
As a part of a move towards greater consumer protection and in
order to combat fakes in the Far East that claim to be swiss made,
the Swiss federal council in 1993 laid down the rule that a watch
has to satisfy before it could be described as swiss made. The
movement must be of Swiss origin, and must contain at least 50%
swiss parts. The watch must be cased in Switzerland and pass its
final inspection in that country.
T
tachymeter: ("tack IM eh ter") A feature found on some chronograph watches, a tachymeter (also called a "tachometer") measures the speed at which the wearer has traveled over a measured distance.
tank watch:
A rectangular watch designed by Louis Cartier. The bars along the
sides of the watch were inspired by the tracks of tanks used in
World War 1.
telemeter:
("tel EH meh ter"): A telemeter determines the distance of an
object from the observer by measuring how long it takes sound to
travel that distance. Like a tachymeter (see "tachymeter"), it
consists of a stopwatch, or chronograph, and a special scale,
usually on the outermost edge of the watch face.
titanium: A
metal that is used for some watch cases and bracelets. Titanium is
much stronger and lighter than stainless steel. Titanium is also
hypo-allergenic.
tonneau
watch: A watch shaped like a barrel, with two convex
sides.
tourbillon:
A device, invented by Breguet in 1801, in which the escapement is
mounted in a small revolving cage as a means of overcoming the
effects of gravity on the precision on a mechanical
timepiece.
U
uni-directional rotating bezel: An elapsed time rotating bezel (see "elapsed time rotating bezel"), often found on divers' watches, that moves only in a counterclockwise direction. It is designed to prevent a diver who has unwittingly knocked the bezel off its original position from overestimating his remaining air supply. Because the bezel moves in only one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety when timing his dive. Many divers' watches are ratcheted, so that they lock into place for greater safety.
W
water resistance: The ability to withstand splashes of water. Terms such as "water resistant to 50 meters" or "water resistant to 200 meters" indicate that the watch can be worn underwater to various depths.
winding
stem: The button on the right side of the watch case used to
wind the mainspring. Also called a "crown."
world time
dial: A dial, usually on the outer edge of the watch face, that
tells the time in up to 24 time zones around the world. The time
zones are represented by the names of cities printed on the bezel
or dial. The wearer reads the hour in a particular time zone by
looking at the scale next to the city that the hour hand is
pointing to. The minutes are read as normal. Watches with this
feature are called "world timers."
Y
yacht timer: A countdown timer (see "countdown timer") that sounds warning signals during the countdown to a boat race span>